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PLACES IN ITALY

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Via Capitanato, 37018 Malcesine, Italy (October 2018)

Palazzo dei Capitani

Palazzo dei Capitani in Malcesine is an architectural gem poised along the shores of Lake Garda, offering a compelling window into the region’s medieval, Renaissance, and Venetian heritage. Built by the Scaligeri family between the 13th and 14th centuries atop Roman and Romanesque remains, the palace has evolved through fire and reconstruction into a remarkable symbol of power and artistry.

In the latter half of the 15th century, after passing into the hands of the Mercanti and then the Miniscalchi family, the palace was transformed in the Venetian Gothic style, complete with richly ornamented façades that reflect both regional craftsmanship and noble aesthetics. Statutes from 1477 confirm that the building had already acquired its current decorative character by that time.

In 1618, the Republic of Venice, acting through the Municipality of Verona, purchased the palace to serve as the residence of the “Capitano del Lago,” the official tasked with overseeing the Gardesana dell’Acqua, the unique federation of Lake Garda communities under Venetian rule. After centuries of administrative use, the municipality of Malcesine became sole owner by 1897, and in 1902 the building was designated a national monument.

Visitors today can access the grand ground-floor hall, where frescoed ceilings display compelling emblems such as the Rocca of Malcesine, the Lion of St. Mark, the coat of arms of Verona, and symbols of the Capitano del Lago Lodovico Giusti. The first floor, once hosting formal audience chambers, a chapel dedicated to Saint Zeno, and richly adorned spaces with a coffered ceiling, combines motifs of foliage, heraldry, and mythological figures within its decorative cornice.

Beyond its interiors, the palace showcases a striking garden that slopes down to the lake—this historic garden once functioned as the landing point for the Capitano’s boat, or “ganzarina,” and now offers serene lakefront views framed by palms and elegant landscaping.

Today, Palazzo dei Capitani serves as a vibrant cultural centre. Its ground floor and garden are open daily with free admission, while the upper rooms open during special events such as concerts, conferences, or weddings. The palace also houses the town library and municipal offices, ensuring that its legacy remains integral to Malcesine’s community life.