Parco della Pescaia, 06124 Perugia PG, Italy (September 2020)

Umbria

Umbria, often called the “green heart of Italy,” is a region defined by its quiet strength, layered history, and deeply rooted traditions. Landlocked and largely untouched by mass tourism, it offers a more intimate vision of Italy, where medieval hill towns rise from wooded valleys, olive groves and vineyards pattern the countryside, and daily life still follows rhythms shaped by centuries of continuity. Umbria does not dazzle with coastal views or grand imperial cities; instead, it captivates through balance, authenticity, and a profound sense of place.

Geographically, Umbria sits at the centre of the Italian peninsula, a position that has shaped its historical role as a crossroads of cultures. Rolling hills, fertile plains, and the Apennine Mountains define its landscape, while rivers such as the Tiber and the Nera have long supported agriculture and settlement. The region’s natural environment remains one of its greatest assets, with forests, lakes, and protected areas contributing to a sense of harmony between human activity and nature. Lake Trasimeno, one of Italy’s largest lakes, is both a scenic and historical landmark, recalling ancient conflicts while today offering tranquillity and rural charm.

Historically, Umbria’s roots extend back to the Umbri people and the Etruscans, before becoming an integral part of the Roman world. Traces of these civilizations remain visible in archaeological sites, city walls, roads, and bridges. After the fall of Rome, Umbria developed into a constellation of independent city-states and religious centres, leaving behind a remarkable medieval heritage. Towns such as Assisi, Perugia, Spoleto, Orvieto, and Gubbio preserve historic cores that seem suspended in time, with stone streets, fortified walls, and piazzas that still function as social and civic hearts.

Religion has played a central role in shaping Umbria’s identity, most notably through Saint Francis of Assisi, whose life and teachings left a lasting spiritual legacy. Assisi became a global pilgrimage destination, yet it remains deeply Umbrian in character, blending sacred art and architecture with everyday life. Monasteries, abbeys, and churches scattered throughout the region reflect centuries of religious devotion and artistic patronage, housing masterpieces of medieval and Renaissance art.

Umbrian culture is also expressed through its food, which is simple, robust, and closely tied to the land. Local cuisine emphasizes seasonal ingredients, traditional techniques, and bold flavours, from black truffles and lentils to cured meats, olive oil, and handmade pasta. Wine production, particularly in areas such as Montefalco and Orvieto, complements the regional table and reflects the diversity of Umbrian terroirs. Food festivals and local sagre play an important role in community life, celebrating harvests, patron saints, and time-honoured recipes.

Despite its deep historical roots, Umbria is not frozen in the past. Contemporary life coexists with tradition, especially in university cities like Perugia, where students, artists, and international residents contribute to a dynamic cultural atmosphere. Craftsmanship, music, literature, and contemporary art continue to evolve, often drawing inspiration from the region’s history and landscape.

Umbria ultimately offers a vision of Italy that is inward-looking yet expansive in meaning. It is a place where history is lived rather than displayed, where landscapes invite contemplation, and where cultural identity is preserved through everyday practices. For visitors and residents alike, Umbria reveals itself gradually, rewarding patience and curiosity with depth, warmth, and an enduring sense of belonging.

The Provinces in the Region of Umbria

The photos shown for each province were taken during my visits to those locations. For more information, click on the name to be taken to the main page for that place.

The Province of Perugia

The Province of Terni

The Province of Terni, located in the southern part of the Umbria region, is an area of striking contrasts where nature, history, and industry coexist in a distinctive balance. Often referred to as the more dynamic and less explored side of Umbria, the province is characterized by dramatic landscapes that range from rolling hills and fertile valleys to rugged mountains and deep river gorges. The Nera and Velino rivers shape much of the territory, creating lush environments and supporting one of the province’s most iconic natural landmarks, the Marmore Waterfall, among the highest man-made waterfalls in Europe.

The city of Terni, the provincial capital, has ancient Roman origins and is historically linked to industrial development, earning it the nickname the Steel City. Alongside its modern identity, the province preserves a rich cultural heritage visible in medieval towns such as Narni, Amelia, and Orvieto, where ancient walls, churches, and underground passages tell stories spanning centuries. The area is also closely associated with Saint Valentine, believed to have been born in Terni, adding a romantic and spiritual dimension to its identity.

With its authentic atmosphere, diverse landscapes, and deep historical roots, the Province of Terni offers a compelling and multifaceted portrait of southern Umbria