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Piazzetta Teatro Mario Zuccarini, Via Arniense, 66100 Chieti, Italy (May 2019)

Chieti

Chieti is a historic city in central Italy, located in the Abruzzo region between the Adriatic Sea and the Apennine Mountains. Perched on a hill overlooking the valleys of the Pescara and Alento rivers, the city enjoys a strategic position that has influenced its development for more than two thousand years. Known for its deep historical roots, archaeological heritage, and strong cultural traditions, Chieti offers visitors a rich and authentic experience of Italian history beyond the most famous tourist centres.

The origins of Chieti date back to ancient times, when it was known as Teate Marrucinorum, the capital of the Marrucini people. Later absorbed into the Roman Republic, the city became an important Roman centre, benefiting from its location along key inland routes. Evidence of this period is still visible today in the form of archaeological remains, including sections of ancient walls, temples, and Roman theatres. These remnants testify to Chieti’s long-standing role as a political, religious, and cultural hub in the region. The continuity of settlement from antiquity to the present gives the city a layered historical character that is evident throughout its urban landscape.

During the medieval period, Chieti maintained its importance as a religious and administrative centre. The city became the seat of an archbishopric, a status that contributed to its architectural and artistic development. Numerous churches, monasteries, and palaces were built during this time, many of which still define the city’s historic core. The Cathedral of San Giustino, dedicated to the patron saint of Chieti, stands as a symbol of the city’s spiritual heritage. Its imposing structure and centuries-old history reflect the enduring role of faith in shaping local identity and community life.

Chieti is also renowned for its museums, which preserve and showcase the region’s archaeological and artistic heritage. The National Archaeological Museum of Abruzzo, housed in Villa Frigerj, is particularly significant, featuring artifacts from prehistoric times through the Roman era. Among its most famous exhibits is the Warrior of Capestrano, an iconic limestone statue that has become a symbol of Abruzzo’s ancient past. These collections provide valuable insight into the civilizations that once inhabited the area and help connect modern visitors with the region’s distant history.

Beyond its historical and cultural institutions, Chieti offers a vibrant urban atmosphere shaped by daily life, education, and tradition. The city is home to one of Italy’s oldest universities, which brings youthful energy and academic influence to the area. This blend of ancient heritage and contemporary life creates a dynamic environment where history is not confined to museums but remains an integral part of everyday experience. Cafes, markets, and public squares serve as social gathering places where residents maintain strong communal bonds.

Chieti’s location also makes it a gateway to the natural beauty of Abruzzo. From the city’s elevated viewpoints, visitors can enjoy panoramic views that stretch from the Adriatic coastline to the snow-capped peaks of the Apennines. This unique setting allows easy access to both seaside destinations and mountainous landscapes, making Chieti an ideal base for exploring the diverse environments of the region. The surrounding countryside, dotted with vineyards, olive groves, and small villages, reflects a way of life deeply connected to the land.

Cultural traditions remain strong in Chieti, with festivals, religious processions, and musical events playing an important role in the social calendar. One of the most notable traditions is the Good Friday procession, considered among the oldest in Italy, which draws participants and spectators from across the region. Local cuisine further enriches the cultural experience, featuring Abruzzese dishes that emphasize simple ingredients, robust flavours, and time-honoured recipes.

Chieti stands as a city where past and present coexist in meaningful harmony. Its ancient origins, rich cultural institutions, and scenic surroundings make it a compelling destination for those seeking to understand the deeper historical and cultural layers of Italy. Through its streets, monuments, and traditions, Chieti offers a journey through centuries of human experience, revealing the enduring spirit of a city shaped by history, faith, and resilience.

Worth a Visit

In the historic heart of Chieti, in the district once known as “Terranova”, stands the Church of Sant’Antonio Abate, a remarkable example of how centuries of devotion, architecture, and civic life intertwine. With origins tracing back to the late Middle Ages, the church was part of a larger complex that originally included a monastery and a hospital. These institutions were managed by the Antonian Order of Vienne, a religious community devoted to caring for the sick, particularly those afflicted by ergotism, also known as “St. Anthony’s Fire.” One of the most striking features of the church is its stone portal, dated 1375, carved by the master craftsman Angelo di Pietro. This Gothic masterpiece is richly decorated with twisted columns, deeply recessed arches, and a lunette fresco from the 16th century, framed by two crouching stone lions.

Nestled at the junction of Via Arniense and the end of Corso Marrucino, the Piazzetta Teatro Mario Zuccarini stands as a refined urban space rich with layers of Chieti’s heritage. Once the site of a bustling fish and meat market, this fan-shaped esedra reflects a classical sensibility, a semi-circular colonnade of Doric columns shielding the former vendor stalls. Originally an open marketplace serving daily commerce, the exedra’s architectural form evokes the ancient Roman forum, a nod to the city’s deep historical roots. By the 19th century, this marketplace underwent significant restoration, embracing the neoclassical aesthetics typical of that era and transforming physically and symbolically into a refined public square.

Perched on a gentle hill in the heart of Chieti, the Cathedral of San Giustino, also known as Cattedrale di San Giustino, is not just a place of worship but a living chronicle of the city’s changing history and artistic heritage. Founded in the 8th century atop the ruins of a pagan temple, the cathedral was rebuilt in 842 AD by Bishop Teodorico I, following the destruction wrought by Charlemagne’s forces. This makes it one of the oldest ecclesiastical structures in Abruzzo. The cathedral’s striking bell tower reflects centuries of architectural evolution. Its sturdy stone base dates from the 11th century, the next two floors were added in 1335 by Bartolomeo di Giacomo, and the octagonal belfry and crowning spire were completed by Antonio da Lodi in 1498. 

Located at the heart of Chieti’s historic centre lies Piazza G.G. Valignani, a charming square shaped by centuries of urban transformation and noble legacy. Known historically as Largo del Pozzo, the square’s name acknowledges an ancient well, a visible sign of Chieti’s longstanding relationship with water, echoed by an extensive Roman-era hydraulic network beneath the surface. In the Middle Ages, Piazza Valignani was overshadowed by dense urban fabric, known as Largo del Teatro. But by the late 19th and early 20th centuries, ambitious urban redevelopment projects reshaped the medieval layout. Corso Marrucino was extended and widened, opening sightlines across the square and creating a welcoming filter between the upper city and the lower historic areas. Architecturally, the square is framed by several notable buildings. The Archbishop’s Palace (Palazzo Arcivescovile) features a 15th-century merloned brick tower commissioned by Bishop Colantonio Valignani, along with an elegant marble staircase added in the late 18th century.  more monumental buildings.

Corso Marrucino is the beating heart of Chieti’s historic centre, a graceful main street that combines centuries of history with the rhythm of contemporary city life. Named after the ancient Marrucini people who once inhabited the area, this elegant thoroughfare runs through the spine of the old town, linking its most important squares, churches, and civic buildings. In its current form, Corso Marrucino dates largely from 19th-century urban redesigns, when the medieval street plan was straightened and widened to create a more monumental, accessible route. Yet traces of its earlier history remain in the façades, arcades, and occasional narrow side alleys that lead off into older parts of the city. Formerly called Corso Galiani, it was renamed toward the end of the 19th century to honour Chieti’s ancient roots.

Photo Gallery of Walk 1 in Chieti – Via Alessandro Valignani to  Piazza S. Giustino
Approximately 0.90 km – 0.56 miles

The walk starts in Via Alessandro Valignani – Via Sant’Antonio Abate – Sant’Antonio Abate, Via Sant’Antonio Abate – Piazza Giacomo Matteotti – Via Papa Giovanni XXIII – Via Giuseppe Mezzanotte – Piazza Malta – Via Arniense – Piazzetta Teatro “Mario Zuccarini” – ex Pescheria, Via Arniense – Piazza Ercole Rocchetti – Largo Cavallerizza – Piazza S. Giustino – Cattedrale di San Giustino, Piazza S. Giustino – Piazza S. Giustino

Photo Gallery of Walk 2 in Chieti – Piazza S. Giustino to Via Smeraldo Vincenzo Zecca
Approximately 0.80 km – 0.50 miles

The walk starts in Piazza S. Giustino –  Cattedrale di San Giustino, Piazza S. Giustino – Piazza S. Giustino – Corso Marrucino – Piazza GG Valignani – Corso Marrucino – Piazza Gian Battista Vico, Lago G.B. Vico – Corso Marrucino – Via Cauta – Piazza Trento e Trieste – Parrocchia Santissima Trinità, Piazza Trento e Trieste – Via Smeraldo Vincenzo Zecca