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Via S. Lazzaro, 71100 Foggia, Italy (September 2018)
Foggia
Foggia is a city located in southern Italy, in the region of Puglia, where wide open plains meet a long and layered history. Often overlooked by travelers in favor of coastal destinations, Foggia offers a more authentic and grounded experience of southern Italian life. It serves as the historical, agricultural, and cultural heart of the Tavoliere delle Puglie, one of the largest and most fertile plains in the country, which has shaped the city’s identity for centuries.
The origins of Foggia can be traced back to the early Middle Ages, when it developed as a small settlement around a religious site. According to tradition, the city grew after the discovery of a sacred image of the Madonna, later enshrined in what is now the Cathedral of Foggia. Over time, the city gained strategic importance due to its location along major trade and pilgrimage routes connecting central and southern Italy. During the Norman and later Swabian periods, Foggia flourished, particularly under Emperor Frederick II, who favored the city and used it as a residence and administrative center.
Although Foggia suffered significant destruction during the Second World War, which reshaped much of its urban fabric, the city has preserved important architectural and cultural landmarks. The Cathedral of Santa Maria Icona Vetere remains a central symbol, reflecting layers of Romanesque and later styles. Public squares, modern avenues, and historic remnants coexist, offering insight into a city that has continually adapted to change while maintaining its regional character.
Agriculture remains at the core of Foggia’s identity. The surrounding Tavoliere plain is often referred to as the granary of Italy, producing wheat, olives, tomatoes, and other essential crops. This agricultural wealth has influenced local traditions, cuisine, and daily rhythms. Markets filled with fresh produce, bread, and cheeses reflect a close connection to the land, while local dishes emphasize simple flavors rooted in farming culture. Orecchiette pasta, seasonal vegetables, and hearty breads are staples that speak to both history and necessity.
Culturally, Foggia is a city of resilience and community. Religious festivals, processions, and local celebrations play an important role in civic life, bringing together neighborhoods and families. Music, folklore, and regional dialect contribute to a strong sense of belonging and local pride. While the city may not display the polished elegance of more tourist-focused destinations, it offers something equally valuable: a sincere expression of everyday Italian life.
Foggia also serves as an important gateway to the wider province, which includes the Gargano Peninsula, known for its dramatic coastline, forests, and historic towns. As a transportation and commercial hub, the city connects inland agricultural areas with coastal and mountain regions, reinforcing its role as a crossroads of cultures and landscapes.
Foggia is a city shaped by the land, by history, and by endurance. For those willing to look beyond first impressions, it reveals a deeper story of southern Italy, grounded in tradition, hard work, and a strong sense of identity that continues to define it today.
Worth a Visit
Nestled in the heart of Foggia, Apulia, the Basilica Cattedrale di Foggia, officially dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary (Italian: Beata Maria Vergine Assunta in Cielo), stands as a monument of architectural splendour and profound spiritual significance. Originally commissioned in the late 12th century (around 1170–1179) under the auspices of King William II of Sicily, the structure began its life as a collegiate church, embracing the Romanesque style infused with elegant Pisan-inspired details. One of the cathedral’s most cherished features is its rich exterior façade, marked by five blind arches and crowned with a meticulously sculpted cornice showcasing animals, mythical figures, and classical motifs, likely the work of the architect-sculptor Bartolomeo da Foggia.
Located at the threshold of Foggia’s ancient core, Piazza XX Settembre emerged in the mid-18th century as one of the city’s first expansive public spaces beyond its medieval walls. Originally known as Largo Palazzo, the square took shape around 1762, coinciding with the completion of the majestic Palazzo Dogana, whose imposing structure continues to dominate the western flank of the piazza. Over time, the square underwent a series of renaming’s. In the wake of Italy’s unification, it became known as Piazza Prefettura, reflecting its administrative prominence. Finally, in 1895, the name Piazza XX Settembre was bestowed, or affirmed, via a commemorative plaque fixed on the Dogana’s façade, honouring the Risorgimento’s symbolic events.
Nestled at the heart of Foggia’s historic core, Via Arpi weaves a narrative across millennia, embodying the city’s origins, medieval prominence, and evolving identity. Its name pays homage to the ancient city of Arpi, founded by the Homeric hero Diomedes and once a steadfast ally of Rome during the Second Punic War. The street begins at Porta Arpana, also known as the “Three Arches”, the age-old gateway to Frederick II’s city. These arches, survivors of centuries of transformation and wartime destruction, remain one of Foggia’s few tangible links to its medieval walls. Historically, Via Arpi was known as the Strada delli Mercanti, Merchant’s Street, bustling with shops and storied commercial activity. A recent exhibit and companion booklet reanimated this legacy, exploring the street’s vibrant past through archival contracts and artistic representations, preserving its commercial-and-cultural heritage.
Photo Gallery of Walk – Via S. Lazzaro to Via Arpi
Approximately 1.86 km – 1.16 miles
The walk starts in Via S. Lazzaro – Church of San Giovanni Battista, Piazza Piano della Croce – Via Arpi – Corso Vittorio Emanuele II – Via Arpi – Piazza Francesco de Sanctis – Basilica Cattedrale di Foggia – B.V.M. Assunta in Cielo – Piazza Pericle Felici – Via Duomo – Piazza del Lago – Via Duomo – Chiesa di San Francesco Saverio o Chiesa delle Colonne, Piazza XX Settembre – Piazza XX Settembre – Prefettura di Foggia, Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi – Via Pasquale Fuiani – Via Arpi – Chiesa di San Giovanni di Dio, Via Arpi – Via Arpi – Piazza Baldassarre – Via Arpi.
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