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Piazza San Michele, 55100 Lucca, Italy (September 2018)

Chiesa di San Michele in Foro

The Chiesa di San Michele in Foro in Lucca is one of the city’s most striking and symbolic landmarks, a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture that dominates the heart of the historic centre. Built on the site of the ancient Roman forum, the church carries both religious and civic significance, serving as a reminder of Lucca’s long history and its cultural vitality. Its imposing façade, rich sculptural details, and towering presence make it a focal point for visitors and an enduring emblem of the city’s identity.

The origins of San Michele in Foro date back to the eighth century, though the present structure was largely rebuilt in the eleventh and twelfth centuries. Its location is significant, as it was constructed directly over the forum of the Roman city, the political and social heart of ancient Lucca. This continuity of use reflects the deep layers of history within the city, where sacred and civic life have long been intertwined.

What immediately captures attention is the church’s façade, one of the most remarkable in all of Tuscany. Rising high above the piazza, it is decorated with tiers of intricately carved columns, arches, and sculptures. Each column is unique, displaying a variety of motifs ranging from classical designs to fantastical creatures, a true testament to the creativity of medieval artisans. Crowning the façade is the massive statue of the Archangel Michael, standing victorious with wings outspread and a sword in hand, symbolizing divine protection and triumph over evil. This figure has become one of Lucca’s most recognized symbols, visible from afar and inspiring devotion and admiration.

The interior of the church, though more austere than its ornate exterior, offers a sense of solemnity and reverence. It preserves important artworks, including a panel painting by Filippino Lippi, which enhances the spiritual atmosphere of the space. The interior also reflects the Romanesque style, with its strong arches, columns, and carefully designed proportions that create an impression of balance and stability.

Piazza San Michele, the square in front of the church, enhances the monument’s grandeur and makes it a central gathering point in the city. Surrounded by historic buildings, the open space allows visitors to appreciate the scale and beauty of the façade while enjoying the lively atmosphere of Lucca’s historic centre.